Nga Nam Floating Market

From Sóc Trăng City, embarking on a journey of just over 60 kilometers by road, you'll follow National Highway 1A until you reach Phú Lộc Town in Thạnh Trị District. From there, branch off onto National Highway 61B for another 24 kilometers, and you'll arrive at Ngã Năm Town. Ngã Năm is considered a pivotal administrative center within Sóc Trăng province's key economic region. It boasts a well-developed road network, including the Quản Lộ Phụng Hiệp route seamlessly connecting to National Highway 60. Beyond its roads, Ngã Năm is also a crucial waterway hub, connecting to neighboring provinces like Bạc Liêu, Cà Mau, and Hậu Giang. It's here that five river branches gracefully converge, creating the famous Ngã Năm Floating Market (Chợ Nổi). This bustling commercial hub offers a truly unique and picturesque riverine landscape. A glimpse of the vibrant Ngã Năm Market.
Nga Nam Floating Market – The Soulful and Most Bustling Riverine Trading Hub in Soc Trang
From Soc Trang City, travel over 60km by road along National Highway 1A to Phu Loc town (Thanh Tri district), then turn onto National Highway 61B and drive for another 24km to reach Nga Nam town. This is one of the administrative units within Soc Trang province's key economic zone, boasting a relatively synchronized transportation system, including Quan Lo Phung Hiep connecting to National Highway 60. Additionally, Nga Nam also features waterways connecting to nearby localities and regions such as Bac Lieu, Ca Mau, and Hau Giang, with five river branches converging to form the Nga Nam Floating Market – a bustling trade hub with charming and unique riverine scenery.

A corner of Nga Nam Floating Market
According to historical documents, the Nga Nam region was officially cleared and settled in the early 19th century as part of the Nguyen Dynasty's policy to reclaim land in the Mekong Delta. By the late 19th century, Nga Nam (now a town) was still largely covered in dense forests, primarily melaleuca trees and reeds, with a sparse population. French colonialists regarded this area as an exploration zone. As part of their Indochina exploitation plan from 1900 to 1924, the French colonialists dug several strategic large canals to develop new lands and facilitate administration and population control, including canals like Quan Lo Phung Hiep - Ca Mau, Ngan Dua - Cau Sap, Gia Rai - Pho Sinh, and Long My - Phu Loc.

The name 'Nga Nam' originated when two canals (Xáng Canal and Quan Lo Phung Hiep Canal) intersected a natural river, creating river branches that flow in five directions. Nga Nam Floating Market is located at the confluence of these five waterways. The Nga Nam River flows into five branches: Nga Nam - Long My, Hau Giang province; Nga Nam - Phung Hiep, Hau Giang province; Nga Nam - Phuoc Long, Bac Lieu province; Nga Nam - Phu Loc, Soc Trang province; and Nga Nam - Vinh Quoi, Soc Trang province. Thus, the place name Nga Nam was formed.

To establish an administrative apparatus and exploit the people of this new land, in 1926, French colonialists separated the two tổng (districts) of Nhieu Phu and Thanh An, establishing Nga Nam District and Phu Loc District (the predecessor of today's Thanh Tri District). In 2003, Nga Nam District was established by separating from Thanh Tri District. By the end of May 2014, Nga Nam town was officially established, covering a natural area of over 24,000 hectares, with a total population of over 19,000 households and more than 80,000 people. To date, the town boasts two nationally ranked historical sites: Ba Chua Xu Temple in My Dong Hamlet and the Nga Nam Military Zone Victory Monument; and three provincially ranked historical sites: Minh Tien Holy See, Thanh Tri District Party Committee Base, and O Chum Pagoda.
Due to its advantageous location, people from Rach Gia, Soc Trang, Can Tho, Vinh Long, and My Tho flocked here to reclaim land and establish livelihoods. Locals from surrounding areas also converged here to exchange and trade goods, gradually forming the Nga Nam market.
It's called a floating market because all trading activities take place in a rather unique location: directly on the river! All buying, selling, and daily life primarily happen on boats. Both sellers and buyers use small boats (xuong) and larger boats (ghe) to move around and conduct transactions on the river. Large boats, small boats, five-plank boats, three-plank boats... load and unload goods continuously from the misty dawn until the market disperses as morning breaks.
Soc Trang province, and the Southwestern provinces in general, benefit from a tropical monsoon climate and fertile land nourished annually by the rich silt from the Mekong River. This creates ideal conditions for agricultural crops to flourish. The region boasts a diverse and abundant variety of plants, fruits, vegetables, and tubers, both in quantity and quality. Farmers often have surplus after harvest, and since these goods have a short shelf life, a need arose for small-scale farmers to trade and sell. They would typically transport their harvested produce and gather along a stretch of river to exchange and sell goods. Over time, this spontaneous habit evolved into a secondary profession during their leisure hours. Some even transitioned completely into trading, passing this livelihood down through generations.
Nga Nam Market is at its most vibrant and bustling from around 3-4 AM until 7-8 AM when the market begins to wind down. Smaller boats distributing goods head towards various canals and narrow waterways, while larger boats anchor elsewhere, waiting to fully unload before continuing their journey to more distant markets. Like many other markets along riverbanks, Nga Nam Market serves as a wholesale and retail hub, much like a general store where you can find almost anything. However, that refers to the Nga Nam market on land. On the river, the floating market primarily features seasonal agricultural products and fruits – 'what's in season is what you'll find.'
The traders at Nga Nam Floating Market often describe their business philosophy as “sell anything, buy anything.” During the early flood season, when the upper regions lack green vegetables, gourds, and pumpkins, boats converge on Nga Nam to stock up on goods for sale. During rambutan, mangosteen, plum, and longan seasons, these fruits pour in from the orchards to Nga Nam. Each trip must be worthwhile, so they carefully choose the size of their boat and plan their journey to ensure profitability, making the long trip rewarding.
Along the riverbank leading to Xeo Chich Canal towards Bac Lieu, there's still a clear passage between the river and the sparsely scattered houses on shore. It seems this area still preserves a glimpse of the “old Nga Nam market” with boats (ghe), small skiffs (xuong), and motorboats (vo lai) moored thickly along the banks. The "cay beo" (selling poles) hang laden with goods like cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, garlic, chili – all products that boats are selling. It's safe to say that Nga Nam Floating Market offers almost all the specialties of the Mekong Delta, from famous rice varieties of the "rice bowl" to fresh, delicious vegetables, tubers, and fruits from the orchards. And then there are shrimp, fish, crabs, frogs… precious gifts that nature generously bestows upon the lower Mekong region.
The market is most vibrant and bustling around 5 AM. The accents and conversations at this floating market still carry the distinctive charm of the old countryside, evoking a nostalgic feeling for travelers. The market is lively with the inviting calls of the boat-owners. Then there are mobile eateries: porridge stalls, bun nuoc leo (noodle soup), hu tieu (rice noodle soup), refreshing drinks…, ready to fully cater to visitors' needs. These scenes create the unique beauty of Nga Nam Floating Market, leaving a lasting impression on many who travel far.
One ingenious tool that effectively advertises and easily conveys information between sellers and buyers is the “cay beo” (selling pole). Even the elderly residents here don't know when the “cay beo” first appeared, but upon entering the floating market, these poles are the first thing traders look for. In the past, each boat specialized in a main product. Boats from Ca Mau sold mangrove charcoal, three-striped crabs (ba khia), fermented fish paste (mam), and mats; Soc Trang boats offered banh pia (pia cakes), sesame crackers (me lao), Chinese sausages (lap xuong), sticky rice, and plain rice; Hau Giang boats specialized in Cau Duc pineapples; and Kien Giang boats sold sweet potatoes.
However, it's not strictly necessary to hang a sample of every specialty product. For instance, no one hangs 'ba khia' (three-striped crabs) or fermented fish paste (mam) on a “cay beo,” as they are too small to be seen from a distance. For large fruits like jackfruit, coconuts, or pumpkins that cannot be hung, they are displayed at the front of the boat or piled high on the boat's roof. Traders paddle around the market, glancing left and right to find what they need. Customers standing on the riverbank also observe the “cay beo” to spot the items they wish to purchase. On the other hand, floating market residents also have things “hung but not for sale, and sold but not hung.” This is because their boats are also their daily living spaces, so they often dry clothes, which are not for sale. Secondly, some boats historically sold large jars (lu), pots (khap), and urns (kieu), but these were too big for sellers to hang. Another interesting detail: if a piece of coconut leaf is tied to a “cay beo,” it signifies that the owner intends to sell their boat.
The “cay beo” is typically made from aged tam vong bamboo, straightened, and about 4-5 meters long. Its pointed base allows for easy anchoring to stabilize the boat when docked, while the tip has holes for threading ropes to hang merchandise. Buyers simply need to stand a distance away, observe the “cay beo,” and find the type of goods they wish to purchase. Through generations, it seems no other form of advertising has replaced the “cay beo” at the floating market.
For the people of Nga Nam, visiting the floating market daily is a cherished habit. Many travel long distances by small boats (xuong) and larger boats (ghe) to the market, simply to enjoy a bowl of porridge, a bowl of bun nuoc leo (noodle soup), or to buy fruits, vegetables, and household items. Even though roads and bridges now lead to the market, locals still prefer paddling their boats to cruise the waterways, visit, and socialize with traders. The human connection at the floating market is evident in every gesture, in their simple, friendly words, and carefree laughter. Many residents here own homes on land but rarely abandon the floating market; their lives are inextricably linked to their boats (ghe, xuong) and their journeys.
Nga Nam Floating Market today still retains the distinct soul of a Western Mekong Delta floating market, making it an ideal destination for tourists to explore and discover. The market is continually seeking investment and development from local authorities to foster trade and attract more tourists. The Department of Culture, Sports, and Tourism of Soc Trang province has invested in 10 boats for the town's Culture and Information Office to operate for tourists. The floating market has welcomed numerous domestic and international tourist groups seeking unique experiences. Many photographers have captured its essence, including a panoramic photo taken by photographer JetHuynh early in the morning, which was selected as an impressive image by RoughGuides – a renowned British travel magazine – in 2015.
Only by sitting in a small boat, paddled leisurely around the floating market by a local, can visitors truly appreciate the simple, rustic, and authentic beauty of this riverside town.
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Update day : 23/08/2023
Source : soctrang.gov.vn Affiliate links
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